Northern Province, New Caledonia - Part 1

Thursday, 14 June to Thursday, 21 June 2018

We left Mouly at 0625 in a 15-20 knot easterly breeze. We set the spinnaker as soon as we had exited the lagoon and made good time, averaging 8 knots across the passage. Highlight of the trip was seeing 2 pods of what we think were Pygmy Killer Whales about 10 miles out from the pass. Initially we thought they were dolphins, but their black bodies, square heads and behaviour (including breaching) looked more like whales. The somewhat rare Pygmy Killer Whales (actually a type of dolphin) seemed the closest match when we got some internet and checked. Sadly, no pictures even though they were close to us as we were too busy trying to work out what they were. They seemed to like sticking their heads out of the water, spyhopping. We were also pleased to get our second mackerel for the trip as we entered the passage at about 1500. 

We followed the markers into the village of Touho were we anchored off the small marina. This was a very protected anchorage and the village had a service station close to the beach with a well-stocked store and produce from the local bakery. Fresh bread, pastries and croissants – more exercise needed if we are going to eat like this. 

The distinctive pine above was planted in 1870 to mark the first marriage between a Kanak and European in the village. 

Locals collecting in the shallows on dusk

On our second night here, we were joined by Nicky C, who are also going around the island but in a shorter timeframe than us.

Christmas tree in the Mairie (town hall)

On Monday, we headed up to Hienghene for 2 nights. We had hoped to go into the small marina here but all the buoys in the river have been removed and Warren wasn’t happy with the depth at the marina. We anchored off Tours Notre-Dame (or La Poule, The Chicken), an interesting rock formation at the entrance of the bay.

We went ashore on Sunday and walked to the Cultural Centre which is being renovated. 

This was the first cultural centre in New Caledonia, built on the site of the 1975 Melanesia 2000 Festival attended by 2,000 performers and 50,000 spectators.  The festival marked the beginning of a process aimed at recognising and supporting Kanak culture. Local tribes spent a year transforming a swamp and building 2 huts for the centre. Sadly one of the local chiefs and 9 of his subjects who worked on the project were murdered during the 1984 “disturbances”.

This was once a prosperous place, cruise ships used to stop at Hienghene and there was a Club Med nearby. It all looks a bit sad these days.

Cascades de Tao

From Hienghene, we headed further north to Baie de Pam passing numerous waterfalls on the way. This is one of the few anchorages in the area recommended for the NE wind that was expected overnight. It wasn’t so great for the 30 knot southerly that came through instead. Next morning we moved further north to Poingam, protected from any wind in the south quarter. 

Anchored about 500m offshore at Poingam

You guessed it, we had a northerly our first night here, again not in any of the 4 forecast models we looked at. We sat it out and were pleased to see the wind stay in the south for the next 2 nights we were anchored there. 

We had an interesting 2 hour walk up the hills behind the resort to see the wild horses and the nearby salt pan.

View from the top

We followed this with lunch at Relais de Poingam on the beach. Very nice and Warren even ate the seaweed accompanying our venison. 

Our original plan was to sail further north from Poingam to the Belep Islands, however with strong SE winds expected, we decided to make this our most northerly anchorage of the trip.

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