Noumea to Bundaberg

We left our berth at the Port Moselle marina at 0800 on Wednesday and motored towards Dumbea Pass in light winds.

Farewell Noumea

Our advice from weather router MetBob was for a good passage of just over 5 days with winds not exceeding 20 knots and waves of less than 2 m. There would be some light patches but we were happy to motor if needed. He had recommended a route to Bundaberg, 805 nm away, as a trip to Brisbane would encounter strong W winds on the last day.

Seawindow left from an anchorage closer to the pass so were 10 nm ahead when we picked them up on AIS. We went through the pass at 0950 and began sailing in an easterly of 10-15 knots. We put up the spinnaker and headed west. The sun was out and it was good conditions to start the trip.

After lunch we heard a bang and discovered that on of our preventer blocks had exploded. The light winds and sloppy seas had caused the main to "slat" which means flick backwards and forwards. This creates a shock load on the fittings which we discovered were undersize.

I was pleased to see that my spectra splices had held however and were stronger than stainless steel! We repaired it with some spare stronger blocks which handled the loads.

New preventer

We dropped the spinnaker at sunset abeam of Seawindow, who were lamenting not having a spinnaker in the conditions.

We sailed all night with Seawindow's lights in sight until 0430 when we started an engine in the light breezes and charged the batteries. Just after 0800 we raised the spinnaker again and headed SW. Our Thursday midday reading showed we had covered 156 nm in the previous 24 hours and were now 622 nm from Bundaberg.

Squalls at dusk

On Thursday night we had to run the motor a couple of times in light winds before midnight until the breeze freshened and we could sail. No spinnaker until 1400 on Friday when the breeze eased to 15 knots.

We sailed until 0100 when we started a motor to keep our speed up. More sailing during the day, however we motored all Saturday night in very light breezes as we wanted to clear Breaksea Spit before the expected NW wind shift. On Sunday morning we changed to the genoa and motorsailed and motored in a light NNE wind.

By Sunday night the breeze had picked up enough to stop the motor and we enjoyed some of our best sailing of the trip. Just after 0900 we were welcomed to Hervey Bay by 2 breaching whales enjoying the shallows around Breaksea Spit. Lots more whales seen in this area including one inquisitive one who changed course to investigate us more closely. I must admit I was getting a tad concerned until he finally dived down when 20 m off our starboard beam.

We were now only 50 nm from Bundaberg, reaching at 8 knots. It was while on this final leg that we became grandparents for the first time. Charlotte Mackenzie arrived 2 weeks early and 3 hours before we finished our trip. What a wonderful welcome home present!

We entered the river at 1500, cleared customs Monday afternoon but had to wait for until Tuesday for quarantine clearance so we could hire a car and head to Cleveland to meet our granddaughter.

Seawindow arrived midnight Monday

It was then back to Bundaberg to bring Phase2 home before the next big southerly change on Sunday. On Thursday evening, we had a farewell dinner with Dave and Sherrill from Seawindow - they would be heading north while we returned home. On Friday we sailed 90 nm from Bundaberg to Pelican Bay, arriving at 2145. Up early on Saturday, it was another 115 nm home, tying up at 0200 on Sunday morning. Needless to say we did not get our customary photo of Mum welcoming us home!

Back to Noumea

Thursday, 26 July to Tuesday, 31 July 2018

After a leisurely sail to Baie de Prony with Lazarina, we headed to Anse Majic while Stephane was keen to visit the hot springs so went to Baie de Caranage. We tried to warn him that they weren’t that hot, but…. We spent 2 nights on a mooring but the weather was unsettled. Intermittent rain and showers meant we didn’t want to walk up the slippery track to the lighthouse, so we decided to kayak down to the southern point of Bonne Anse for some exercise and a wander on the beach. Very pretty and I wished I hadn’t forgotten the tea.

On Saturday, we sailed through Canal Woodin to Baie Uie where we spent another quiet night. 

On Sunday morning, we went for a paddle up the creek and a close encounter with 2 curious dolphins. 

We then motored in very light winds to Port Moselle Marina where we managed to get a berth in preparation for clearing out of New Caledonia and heading back to Australia. Lots of yachts we know on the visitors pontoon as many boats are preparing to go to Vanuatu.

We had asked MetBob to look for a weather window after 1 August and that was looking like the date to go. Seawindow was also in Noumea, preparing to head back at the same time. More rain as we tried to ready ourselves for another crossing of the Coral Sea. I prepared some meals while Warren attached jackstays, Para anchor and did the clearing out on Tuesday ready for a Wednesday departure.

Ile des Pins (Isle of Pines)

Monday, 16 July to Thursday, 26 July 2018

After leaving Port Moselle marina we sailed around the corner to the well protected Ile Uere. We went ashore for a walk and after RQ boat Windward Passage left we had the bay to ourselves.

After a quiet night, we sailed south in an NNW wind that slowly went around to WSW during the day. We put the spinnaker up about 1100 and planned to stop at Ilot Mato in the south lagoon. By lunchtime we were romping along in a moderate westerly and we decided to go all the way to Kuto at Ile des Pins.  We arrived just on dark after averaging 8 knots all afternoon.  The wind was SW by this time and the anchorage at Kuto was a bit rolly.

We went for a walk around in the morning and were disappointed to discover the bakery/shop closed at 1130 and not 1200 as we thought. We revisited the convict ruins which are looking very unkempt which is sad given the role they played in the history of the island. New signs (with some English) had been put up near the new dinghy dock for the cruise ship passengers to read but clearly no one has thought to also do tours of the ruins. 

After lunch we headed across to Ilot Brosse, just 4nm to the south. There was only one other yacht here although the locals bring tourists out for lunch and a swim.

Warren braving the water - too cold for me!

 

We walked across the island one day being careful not to fall into the many deep holes near the track.

Can anyone explain these?

After 2 nights here, we motor-sailed around to Baie d’Oro, entering the inner anchorage off Le Meridien resort just before high tide with 2m of water. A beautiful anchorage that we shared with a NZ power boat one night and the catamaran, Lazarina from Papeete for the next 2 nights.

Unfortunately, the weather was quite unsettled however we managed a hike to Baie de Upi and swam in the Blue Lagoon. The coral was ok but there were lots of fish so it is well worth a visit.

Baie de Upi

On Sunday, we rode our bikes to the local shop about 6kms away for bread only to discover that there is no bread on a Sunday. None for 2 in the bread department!

Morning tea at the church

On Monday, we motored around to Gadji, another of the jewels of Ile des Pins. The anchorage is only 2m deep and the water colour and clarity are beautiful.

We kayaked around the “mushroom” rocks, explored the beaches and enjoyed sundowners with Stefan and Michelle off Lazarina. Stefan has sailed from French Polynesia and is making his way to Australia later this year as part of a circumnavigation.

After 3 days we exited the lagoon via the south after Warren spoke to a local charter boat skipper who advised him this is an all tide entrance. Our normal route from the west requires at least half tide. We left in company with Lazarina for the trip back to the south lagoon and Grande Terre.

Lazarina

Bastille Day in Noumea

Thursday, 12 July to Monday, 16 July 2018

Our first day in Noumea was spent visiting the markets, cleaning the boat and taking the laundry to be done. No laundromat at the marina but they will wash and dry your clothes at the Fuel Dock -a long walk from the visitors berths. By Friday afternoon we took a break and visited the Museum of New Caledonia. 

Pre-Bitcoin money

This museum specialises in Kanak arts and traditions as well as arts and culture of other South Pacific nations. Just as well they are preserving it as I don’t remember any similar museums in Vanuatu.

Masks from Malakula, Vanuatu 

The displays are beautifully presented and there is an English explanation of most exhibits.

On Friday evening we invited Dave and Sherrill from Seawindow for sundowners before heading off for the lantern parade that celebrates Bastille Day. 5000 lanterns are given out and the crowd walks to Coconut Square for the fireworks. 

On Saturday, Bastille Day, there is a military parade down the main street near the marina.  

The National Servicemen’s Memorial Band from Australia led the parade with Waltzing Matilda and other Aussie favourites. Dave and Sherrill, who were moored at Port de Sud marina in the next bay had been woken at 6am each morning by the bagpipes practising! 

They were sorry Dave and Sherrill

It rained as the parade progressed but the crowd stayed to cheer on the armed forces regiments, firemen and gendarmes along with the armoured vehicles, horses and one small inflatable.

The band entertained the crowd at the markets later in the day with a range of tunes before finishing with the French National anthem to the cheers of the crowd. Rain all afternoon meant we didn’t venture far, but when it finally cleared on Sunday we went for a walk to Saint Joseph’s Cathedral overlooking the city. 

It was built between 1887 and 1897 with convict labour to the plans of a former prisoner. Over 50% of the population of New Caledonia are Roman Catholic.

On Monday morning, I went for a bike ride around the foreshore to Anse Vata for a final shop while Warren visited the bank and hardware store. This stretch of shoreline is where the large hotels, boutiques and restaurants can be found.

Now that is a crayfish!

At midday we left the marina to head south to Isle of Pines and the southern lagoon for a few weeks.

Grande Terre Circumnavigation Completed

Tuesday, 3 July to Thursday, 12 July 2018

It is 80nm from Baie de Chasseloup to Passe D’Ouarai, the first opening into the southern barrier reef. Boats travelling south either do this in one long leg if there are favourable conditions or if you have constant SE winds as we have, then you can do it in smaller stages.

Our first leg was 30nm in a straight line to Ile Grimault - tacking to windward it was 49nm sailing. Ile Grimault was a great anchorage, very protected and with a nice beach for a walk at the end of the day.

Ile Grimault

Next leg was 32nm to Bourail. Another 50nm sailing to windward. We were lucky on this leg for the wind to be a bit more easterly before shifting to the south just after lunch to give us a quick final 15nm.

We had 3 nights in Bourail anchored in Baie de Nessadiou which had great protection from the strong SE winds blowing. We kayaked both days we were there - to the next beach and La Nera river and also to Ile Verte.

Plage de Roche Percee is a surf beach in a westerly

La Nera river - you could kayak to Bourail if you were keen

Ile Verte

On Saturday, the winds had eased and we ventured out for the final leg outside the lagoon to Passe D’Ouarai, about 20nm away. We entered the pass at 1300 and then headed for Ouano for the night. There is a narrow channel through the coral, and we anchored with 5 other yachts. 

Ouano boat ramp

We had 2 nights here and enjoyed the company of some locals, Patrick and Pierrette. Patrick had circumnavigated (the world, not just Grande Terre!) with his parents and 3 siblings in a 30 foot mono. Patrick then built the 75 foot “pirate ship” (his description) Bonte 45 years ago in the Carribean and it became home to his family. Among other entertaining stories was how he learnt to fly his seaplane (an ultralight biplane) which was stored on Bonte.

The beautiful Bonte

They sold Bonte 6 months ago and were now enjoying a new Beneteau 46 – unhappy that you couldn’t order one without all the electronics which they had never needed.

We were still working our way south to Noumea for Bastille Day, so headed for Ilot Tenia where we caught up with Barbarossa, one of the Go East rally fleet. 

Ilot Tenia

We decided to head to Ile Puen for the overnight anchorage as Tenia can get quite rolly. Turned out to be a good call as we discovered when we saw Barbarossa again at Presque’Ile Uitoe. Presque’Ile means almost an island and this large protected bay was great. 

Nickel being loaded from barges

It was so protected we headed off on Wednesday morning with genoa and full main to discover the 20 knot SE was still blowing. We sailed to Timbea, a beautiful bay for lunch, quick headsail change and walk ashore.

Horse getting its exercise at Timbea

We then sailed with 2 reefs and the self-tacker to Baie Maa, just 6nm from Noumea. Winds were over 20 knots gusting to 30. We left early on Thursday and arrived at the Port Moselle marina at 1030. Our circumnavigation of Grande Terre had taken 44 days and we covered 730nm.

Several people have since asked us is it worth going around the top. The answer is yes if you have done the main cruising areas around Noumea, southern lagoon, Ile de Pins and Loyalties. It is a lot different to down south – we saw only 2 other yachts in the north but there are beautiful, quiet anchorages and friendly locals.