Loyalty Islands

Tuesday, 5 June to Wednesday, 13 June 2018

We left Port Boise at 0630 on Tuesday morning for the 100nm leg to Lifou Island in the Loyalty Group. We motored in light winds until 1020 when the wind had built enough to raise the spinnaker for the first time this trip. 

The wind stubbornly stayed in the SSE so it was not the best sailing angle but as the wind increased to 15-20 knots the sail became more enjoyable. 

Hard work this sailing

Highlight of the day was catching an 85cm Spanish mackerel which was dinner as we approached Lifou. 

We stayed well clear of the reefs and were happy to anchor in the dark at about 2200 having been here twice before. We could see an anchor light as we approached and we discovered Ansoba, another rally boat anchored close to shore.  

Ansoba (an Island Packet, Lester) at Drueulu

With bad weather headed our way, we headed off for Ouvea while Ansoba were going to sit it out at Drueulu. We had a later start than we had planned after we decided to go ashore and buy a baguette at the small shop. The breeze was E 15-20 most of the day and we sailed under main and jib only in the frequent rain squalls. The wind freshened and waves increased as we approached the pass at about 1700 and we were glad to gybe and enter the protected pass and lagoon. We anchored just on dark off the Hotel Paradis d’Ouvea after 50nm.

Our previous visit here had been in perfect weather, unlike our first 2 days this trip where we had rain and 30 knots of wind. We couldn’t leave the boat so did some baking, washing and watched some movies. The wind generator comes into its own in these conditions. On Thursday morning another yacht appeared but anchored about half a mile away. It turned out to be Sweetheart, another RQ yacht on their way to Vanuatu. Small world sometimes!

Sweetheart sitting out the wild weather

On Saturday, in clearing skies we headed ashore and caught a shuttle bus to take us to the Fete du Lagon in Saint Joseph about 35km to the north. We had heard about this Fete in Noumea and were keen to see what it was about.

It is actually celebrating the 10th anniversary of the UNESCO world heritage listing of the Ouvea Lagoon (and 5 other sites around New Caledonia).

There were not a lot of people but those present enjoyed the food stalls, kids traditional dancing, volleyball, bicycle race and basket weaving race!

Warren even surprised me by trying fish sausage and coconut rice after it was recommended by the local doctor – sadly he didn’t enjoy it as much as me. The doctor had an educational display about how much sugar was in various drinks as diabetes is a rising problem here.

We spent some time looking at the displays about conservation of the area and mangrove regeneration projects being undertaken by the locals. One of the conservationists, Romain, who spoke good English, explained it all to us.

Our only worry was when our shuttle didn’t turn up at the prearranged time, or when they said they would after 2 phone calls. Romain helped us out with the French speaking taxi driver and eventually recommended we get a lift with an interviewer for Noumea radio who kindly offered to go out of his way for us.

On Sunday we did a tour of the cliffs of Lekiny with Felix a guide from the Lekiny Tribe. 

This lagoon with its steep cliffs is an amazing sight, however is off limits to visitors unless with a local guide. The bridge across the entrance to the lagoon is frequented by large schools of eagle rays that feed on the outgoing tide.

In perfect weather, we drove to the mouth of a small creek that we had to wade across, and we then climbed up and walked along the cliff face.

At the end of the cliffs, Felix showed us a small grotto that was used by the tribe in 1953 to escape a severe storm which destroyed their village. In 1963 they went back to the cave and had a small service to thank God for saving them. A small chapel was built in the grotto and it is used for the baptism of children in the tribe. Felix said he was baptised there. 

We then went for a snorkel in the lagoon. Where there were lots of fish and some nice coral.

On Monday, we went for a bike ride to Fayaoue for some supplies and arrived back to find RQ yacht Nicky C anchored nearby. We had a beautiful dinner with them at the restaurant (Hotel Paradis)  that evening. We burned some of these calories off the next day with a 36 km ride to the Memorial for the 19 in Hwadrilla. This is a memorial to the 19 Kanaks who were killed on 5 May 1988 by French police and commandos who were brought in to end a hostage drama in a local cave on Ouvea. 

2 of the rescue team were also killed and the memorial was recently visited by President Macron on the 30^th anniversary of the clash.

3 more catamarans arrived at the anchorage, 2 from Australia and one with an Israeli couple on board doing a slow circumnavigation. We enjoyed hearing some of their stories over a cuppa, including how they had to repair the yacht in Fiji after it was holed during cyclone Winston in 2016. We look forward to catching up with them when they come to Brisbane later in the year.

Wednesday afternoon we moved up to Mouly to be ready for an early start on Thursday back across to Grand Terre to continue our lap of New Caledonia.

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