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Wednesday, 6 March 2019

Tasmania’s South Coast


Tuesday, 19 February to Tuesday, 5 March 2019
On Wednesday, 20 February we left the Prince of Wales Bay Marina after 2 weeks enjoying first the Wooden Boat Festival and then our road trip to Cradle Mountain. We only made it as far as Constitution Dock in the centre of Hobart. Tasmanian Maritime has a number of berths available for free for 5 hours, although you may stay overnight if you send a text. It is very convenient for shopping and a meal in the city.  
On Thursday, after a visit to the new fuel dock at the Royal Yacht Club of Tasmania, we sailed down the Derwent River in a strong south-westerly to The Duckpond on Bruny Island. 
Still chilly!
We spent 2 nights here – it is a very protected anchorage but there is nowhere to go ashore. On Saturday, we sailed to the Huon River where we anchored off the Port Cygnet Sailing Club. 

We stretched our legs with a walk to Cygnet
On Sunday, we headed further up the river to Castle Forbes Bay, to visit new friends Rob and Anne. Relatives of a golfing friend of mine, we had first met them at the Wooden Boat Festival and, typical of the hospitality of Tasmanians, they invited us to come and visit them. They have a gorgeous house on the Huon River with a pontoon. 
The Huon Valley has been threatened by bushfires for weeks, with firefighters managing to control most of the blazes. Fires have been raging across Tasmania with the most severe in the SW of the state. Rob and Anne were forced to leave their home as the bushfires approached and made their escape in their motor cruiser Geni, a 36 foot King Billy Pine fishing launch. 
Luckily the fires did not reach their home but like many people in Tasmania they were at the mercy of the fires and the weather. We had seen evidence of the fires, many not far from houses, as we motored up the river. 
We were shown the sights of the Huon Valley, enjoyed a dinner party with their friends and departed with fresh eggs and fruit and vegetables from their garden.
Warren and Rob in Geeveston
On Tuesday, we motored the 4nm to Franklin, a small town on the Huon with a long history of boat building. It is home to The Wooden Boat Centre, a school that is now operated by the town.  We both thoroughly enjoyed our tour of the facility - Warren loved it so much he is trying to work out where to store a wooden dinghy he could build on one of their 6-8 week courses!


As we only had a depth of 1.5m getting to Franklin, we decided to head down the river at high tide and spent the night at Copper Alley Bay in Port Cygnet. On Wednesday, we sailed back to South Bruny Island and anchored in Mickeys Bay. Warren caught a few flathead and we searched for a track through to Cloudy Bay, but after a long walk we failed to find any public access to the bay.
Closest we got to Cloudy Lagoon
On Thursday, we tacked 20nm up the D’Entrecasteaux Channel to Quarantine Bay. We went ashore at the new pontoon and walked to the old Quarantine Station. It originally was used to quarantine ships coming to Australia to prevent the spread of diseases such as typhoid. After the end of WWI, returning soldiers were quarantined for 7 days before being allowed to return home. This was to prevent the spread of the Spanish Flu that was killing millions around the world. Over 9000 soldiers spent time here in 1919. A local group is restoring the station to preserve the history of the site and we would recommend a visit. 
The "Cleansing Station" and Medical Officers House
On Friday, it was back to Constitution Dock as I was flying back to Brisbane on Saturday for some family functions, while Warren was taking the boat back to the marina until my return on Monday.
Dinner overlooking Phase2

Friday, 22 February 2019

Cradle Mountain road trip


Monday, 11 February to Monday, 18 February 2019
We picked up our hire car on Monday afternoon and headed off a bit later than planned as rain delayed our packing. We were underway by 1100 and drove up the Derwent valley, stopping in New Norfolk to admire the view. 
Derwent Valley from Peppermint Hill
We then drove on to Mt Fields National Park where we had lunch and walked to Russell Falls and to see the Tall Trees that escaped logging.
Russell Falls
A visitor’s National Park Pass cost $60 for a car and up to 8 people for 8 weeks. Very good value and the standard of NP infrastructure was excellent at the parks we visited.
Countryside was much drier than expected
From Mt Fields we drove to Tarraleah our accommodation for the next 3 nights.
Tarraleah Ducks
Tarraleah is an old Hydro town that has been converted for tourists and includes accommodation in houses, villas, lodge or caravan park and has a café and an inn.
History of  hydro-electricity in the area

Our villa had good heating
Our first night was quite cold we thought – we awoke to discover it had snowed on Cradle Mountain and Lake St Clair, today's destination.
Snow on the roadside
We arrived at the visitor centre and booked a ferry to Echo Point where we were dropped off for the 3 hour walk back to the lodge. It started raining while we were on the boat and we were glad of the hut at Echo Point to put all our wet weather gear on for the walk back. It was cold…..and with a strong wind it felt even colder. There was still snow on the track and now some mud from the rain. 
Snow on the track
It was difficult going over large tree roots, and across small streams but the scenery when the sun came out (on occasion) was beautiful.
Mount Ida
The walk took about 4 hours to cover the 11km and we were glad for a hot cup of tea on our return. Dinner at the Highland Arms was excellent, helped by the roaring fire. You gotta love summer in Tasmania.
Tassie sense of humour
On Thursday, we decided to stay around Tarraleah where there were several walks. 
Quoll track - no quolls sighted
Eagle track - you guessed it, no eagles
Only an occasional shower, but cold still so wet weather gear was the order of the day. Warren enjoyed feeding the Highland cows kept on the property and we also saw Tasmania’s highest golf course.
On Friday, we set off for Cradle Mountain, stopping at The Wall first. This is a carved mural that tells the history of the region. Artist Greg Duncan has been carving the 3 m high wood panels for over ten years and there is still much of the 100m wall to be completed. It was an impressive work of art but sadly no photos are allowed inside.
We travelled via Queenstown to get to Moina, about 25 minutes away from the Cradle Mountain Visitors centre. The road was windy and we were glad for the upgrade of our Corolla to a small SUV. On the way we also stopped at Nelson Falls and Queenstown to break up the 250km drive.
Nelson Falls
Queenstown monument to the early miners
Cradle Mountain is busy! The National Parks had an excellent shuttle bus service to take you to one of the 4 starting points for hikes in the park.
On Saturday we decided to walk to Marion’s Lookout which overlooks both Crater and Dove Lakes. 
Crater Lake
Unfortunately it was overcast with low clouds but there was no snow! While the walk was only 8 km it took us 4 and a half hours.
We made it
This is the first stage of the overland track which runs from Cradle Mountain to Lake St Clair - a distance of 65 km. Apparently once a year they have a race along the track, the record is under 8 hours for a trek that most people take 6 days to complete.
We were glad to only have a day pack as we climbed over 400m vertically, the last section with the help of a chain.
On Sunday, we started the day with a visit to Devils@Cradle, a conservation park for breeding Tasmanian Devils and Eastern and Spotted-tail Quolls.
Devil populations have been hard hit by the Devil Facial Tumour Disease that has reduced the population by 85% since it was first described in 1996. We were encouraged to hear that the population is beginning to show resistance to the disease.
Talk to start the Keepers tour
We did a couple of the shorter walks before lunch then completed the 6km Dove Lake Circuit. The sun was out and we had spectacular views of Cradle Mountain.
No wet weather gear!
On Monday we were on the road again for the drive back to Hobart with stops at Sheffield, Deloraine, Oatlands and Richmond. We managed to pack quite a lot into our 7 days on the road.
Sheffield - the Mural town
Quilted sculpture in Deloraine - 10,000 hours work by the local community
Callington Mill in Oatlands
Australia's oldest bridge built in 1823 in Richmond 

Tuesday, 19 February 2019

Norfolk Bay and the Wooden Boat Festival


Monday, 4 February to Monday 11, February 2019
It was an 0630 start on Monday from Maria Island to time our transit of the Denison Canal for slack water, 2 hours 20 minutes after Hobart high tide. The canal was opened in 1905 to shorten the route between the east coast and Hobart and largely avoid the notorious Storm Bay. Two and a half hours motoring saw us at the red seaward marker to the Marion Narrows. Another hour later we were at the leads for the canal. We were a bit ahead of schedule but as we went through the canal, we only had 0.5 knot against us. It can run at up to 10 knots which would be a problem as we only motor at 6 knots.
We sailed and motored south from Dunalley Bay to Little Norfolk Bay where we spent the night. In convict days, boats used to come here and offload cargo and visitors for Port Arthur. A railway, thought to be the first in Australia to carry passengers, was built in 1836. The carriages were pushed by convicts up over the hill then they jumped on for the descent.  
I went ashore for a walk but the town of Taranna was pretty quiet – highlight was the chocolate factory.
Jetty at Taranna
On Tuesday morning we motored around the corner to Eaglehawk Bay. We tried out our new Tassie boots for our wade ashore to see this historic site. 
First up was the dog line. 9 ferocious dogs were placed along the narrowest part of Eaglehawk Neck and 2 were later put on platforms in the water to guard the escape route for convicts. They would bark and alert the soldiers of any disturbance. The old officer’s quarters contained an interesting museum.
After spending some time reading about life here, we walked a short distance to the Tessellated Pavement, an unusual rock formation in Pirates Bay.
It's getting colder - Warren in his Christmas present!
On Wednesday, we sailed across Norfolk and Frederick Henry bays, inside Betsey Island and up the Derwent River to the Prince of Wales Bay Marina. 
Sailing through flocks of birds
The marina is 3nm upstream of the Tasman bridge and has been enlarged since we were last here in 2015. There are lots of cruisers here for the same reason as us – to attend the Australian Wooden Boat Festival.
The festival ran from Friday to Monday and we attended every day. We looked at all the boats (sail, motor, rowing), tall ships, remote controlled boats, model boats and boats in bottles. 
Ross Muir showing Warren his recently finished Trevassa Too


HMB Endeavour

We learnt how ropes are made, saw how wooden boats were traditionally made, watched the sailpast and some races, attended a talk about the evolution of the 18 foot skiff and were entertained by singers. It is a great event and I will let the pictures tell the rest of the story. 


They had to row after these boats and catch them to adjust the sails


Gusts on the Derwent tested the sailors
Classic 18 footer Britannia