Ile des Pins (Isle of Pines)

Monday, 16 July to Thursday, 26 July 2018

After leaving Port Moselle marina we sailed around the corner to the well protected Ile Uere. We went ashore for a walk and after RQ boat Windward Passage left we had the bay to ourselves.

After a quiet night, we sailed south in an NNW wind that slowly went around to WSW during the day. We put the spinnaker up about 1100 and planned to stop at Ilot Mato in the south lagoon. By lunchtime we were romping along in a moderate westerly and we decided to go all the way to Kuto at Ile des Pins.  We arrived just on dark after averaging 8 knots all afternoon.  The wind was SW by this time and the anchorage at Kuto was a bit rolly.

We went for a walk around in the morning and were disappointed to discover the bakery/shop closed at 1130 and not 1200 as we thought. We revisited the convict ruins which are looking very unkempt which is sad given the role they played in the history of the island. New signs (with some English) had been put up near the new dinghy dock for the cruise ship passengers to read but clearly no one has thought to also do tours of the ruins. 

After lunch we headed across to Ilot Brosse, just 4nm to the south. There was only one other yacht here although the locals bring tourists out for lunch and a swim.

Warren braving the water - too cold for me!

 

We walked across the island one day being careful not to fall into the many deep holes near the track.

Can anyone explain these?

After 2 nights here, we motor-sailed around to Baie d’Oro, entering the inner anchorage off Le Meridien resort just before high tide with 2m of water. A beautiful anchorage that we shared with a NZ power boat one night and the catamaran, Lazarina from Papeete for the next 2 nights.

Unfortunately, the weather was quite unsettled however we managed a hike to Baie de Upi and swam in the Blue Lagoon. The coral was ok but there were lots of fish so it is well worth a visit.

Baie de Upi

On Sunday, we rode our bikes to the local shop about 6kms away for bread only to discover that there is no bread on a Sunday. None for 2 in the bread department!

Morning tea at the church

On Monday, we motored around to Gadji, another of the jewels of Ile des Pins. The anchorage is only 2m deep and the water colour and clarity are beautiful.

We kayaked around the “mushroom” rocks, explored the beaches and enjoyed sundowners with Stefan and Michelle off Lazarina. Stefan has sailed from French Polynesia and is making his way to Australia later this year as part of a circumnavigation.

After 3 days we exited the lagoon via the south after Warren spoke to a local charter boat skipper who advised him this is an all tide entrance. Our normal route from the west requires at least half tide. We left in company with Lazarina for the trip back to the south lagoon and Grande Terre.

Lazarina

Bastille Day in Noumea

Thursday, 12 July to Monday, 16 July 2018

Our first day in Noumea was spent visiting the markets, cleaning the boat and taking the laundry to be done. No laundromat at the marina but they will wash and dry your clothes at the Fuel Dock -a long walk from the visitors berths. By Friday afternoon we took a break and visited the Museum of New Caledonia. 

Pre-Bitcoin money

This museum specialises in Kanak arts and traditions as well as arts and culture of other South Pacific nations. Just as well they are preserving it as I don’t remember any similar museums in Vanuatu.

Masks from Malakula, Vanuatu 

The displays are beautifully presented and there is an English explanation of most exhibits.

On Friday evening we invited Dave and Sherrill from Seawindow for sundowners before heading off for the lantern parade that celebrates Bastille Day. 5000 lanterns are given out and the crowd walks to Coconut Square for the fireworks. 

On Saturday, Bastille Day, there is a military parade down the main street near the marina.  

The National Servicemen’s Memorial Band from Australia led the parade with Waltzing Matilda and other Aussie favourites. Dave and Sherrill, who were moored at Port de Sud marina in the next bay had been woken at 6am each morning by the bagpipes practising! 

They were sorry Dave and Sherrill

It rained as the parade progressed but the crowd stayed to cheer on the armed forces regiments, firemen and gendarmes along with the armoured vehicles, horses and one small inflatable.

The band entertained the crowd at the markets later in the day with a range of tunes before finishing with the French National anthem to the cheers of the crowd. Rain all afternoon meant we didn’t venture far, but when it finally cleared on Sunday we went for a walk to Saint Joseph’s Cathedral overlooking the city. 

It was built between 1887 and 1897 with convict labour to the plans of a former prisoner. Over 50% of the population of New Caledonia are Roman Catholic.

On Monday morning, I went for a bike ride around the foreshore to Anse Vata for a final shop while Warren visited the bank and hardware store. This stretch of shoreline is where the large hotels, boutiques and restaurants can be found.

Now that is a crayfish!

At midday we left the marina to head south to Isle of Pines and the southern lagoon for a few weeks.

Grande Terre Circumnavigation Completed

Tuesday, 3 July to Thursday, 12 July 2018

It is 80nm from Baie de Chasseloup to Passe D’Ouarai, the first opening into the southern barrier reef. Boats travelling south either do this in one long leg if there are favourable conditions or if you have constant SE winds as we have, then you can do it in smaller stages.

Our first leg was 30nm in a straight line to Ile Grimault - tacking to windward it was 49nm sailing. Ile Grimault was a great anchorage, very protected and with a nice beach for a walk at the end of the day.

Ile Grimault

Next leg was 32nm to Bourail. Another 50nm sailing to windward. We were lucky on this leg for the wind to be a bit more easterly before shifting to the south just after lunch to give us a quick final 15nm.

We had 3 nights in Bourail anchored in Baie de Nessadiou which had great protection from the strong SE winds blowing. We kayaked both days we were there - to the next beach and La Nera river and also to Ile Verte.

Plage de Roche Percee is a surf beach in a westerly

La Nera river - you could kayak to Bourail if you were keen

Ile Verte

On Saturday, the winds had eased and we ventured out for the final leg outside the lagoon to Passe D’Ouarai, about 20nm away. We entered the pass at 1300 and then headed for Ouano for the night. There is a narrow channel through the coral, and we anchored with 5 other yachts. 

Ouano boat ramp

We had 2 nights here and enjoyed the company of some locals, Patrick and Pierrette. Patrick had circumnavigated (the world, not just Grande Terre!) with his parents and 3 siblings in a 30 foot mono. Patrick then built the 75 foot “pirate ship” (his description) Bonte 45 years ago in the Carribean and it became home to his family. Among other entertaining stories was how he learnt to fly his seaplane (an ultralight biplane) which was stored on Bonte.

The beautiful Bonte

They sold Bonte 6 months ago and were now enjoying a new Beneteau 46 – unhappy that you couldn’t order one without all the electronics which they had never needed.

We were still working our way south to Noumea for Bastille Day, so headed for Ilot Tenia where we caught up with Barbarossa, one of the Go East rally fleet. 

Ilot Tenia

We decided to head to Ile Puen for the overnight anchorage as Tenia can get quite rolly. Turned out to be a good call as we discovered when we saw Barbarossa again at Presque’Ile Uitoe. Presque’Ile means almost an island and this large protected bay was great. 

Nickel being loaded from barges

It was so protected we headed off on Wednesday morning with genoa and full main to discover the 20 knot SE was still blowing. We sailed to Timbea, a beautiful bay for lunch, quick headsail change and walk ashore.

Horse getting its exercise at Timbea

We then sailed with 2 reefs and the self-tacker to Baie Maa, just 6nm from Noumea. Winds were over 20 knots gusting to 30. We left early on Thursday and arrived at the Port Moselle marina at 1030. Our circumnavigation of Grande Terre had taken 44 days and we covered 730nm.

Several people have since asked us is it worth going around the top. The answer is yes if you have done the main cruising areas around Noumea, southern lagoon, Ile de Pins and Loyalties. It is a lot different to down south – we saw only 2 other yachts in the north but there are beautiful, quiet anchorages and friendly locals.  

Northern Province, New Caledonia - Part 2

Friday, 22 June to Monday, 2 July 2018

On Friday, we rounded Ile Tiya and began the trip south down the west coast of Grande Terre. We had originally planned to go further north to the Belep Islands but with SE winds for the foreseeable future, we decided not to add another 25nm to the 200nm to Noumea.

Time to head south - rounding Ile Tiya 

We had lunch at Ile Neba but when the wind went around to the south a nasty swell came around the corner. We motored 6 nm to Ile Yava, another picturesque anchorage. We spent 2 days here and enjoyed a long kayak each day.

Ile Yava

On Sunday afternoon, we motored 6nm to Poum to buy some bread and petrol. One small shop and a larger, more modern one at the service station, which unfortunately was out of petrol for the outboard and generator. 

Poum wharf

Saraoni, who we had met at Touho, caught up with us here and they got some great photos as we left Poum on Monday. 

With the south easterly winds set in, and no cruiser liking to sail to windward, we are happy to sail shorter legs to slowly eat away at the distance to go to Noumea. So today was 15nm to Ile Tanle. 2 nights here with just the chooks ashore for company.

On Wednesday, it was 35nm to Koumac, one of the larger towns in the Northern Province. We stayed 4 nights in the marina here, a chance to give the boat a good clean and use the very reasonably priced washing machines and dryer. Quite a treat after hand washing.

Phase2 and Saraoni (South Coast 36 Ketch) on the visitors pontoon

The town is 2 km inland from the marina so we rode our bikes to the tourist information and practised our French. Most of the people we met have no English, unlike Noumea where they all say they have “a little” but actually understand most of what we say. The butcher enjoyed my attempts at French – they all go to the same charm school it seems and the meat was good quality.

Good bike lanes on one street!

On Friday, we rode to the Koumac Grottes, caves about 10km from the marina. 

Free entry and a lovely park to enjoy a cup of tea. You can go over 380m into the big cave although we only did about half of that distance. Pitch black but our headlamps showed the limestone formations.

On Saturday, we took a tour of the old mining village of Tiebaghi with a guide Gizelle who sadly spoke no English. As we were the only ones on the tour, we relied on Google translate. We did work out that Gizelle’s grandfather had come out from Italy to work in the mine in the 1930’s. The many single Italian men were housed in a 3 storey building, well away from the married women! 

View from the village

Italian, Javanese, Vietnamese, Japanese and French all had separate areas in the village built on the side of the mountain. Her parents also worked and lived here. The village was home to 2000 people including the 600 miners. 

Club still used for weddings and baptisms

Bakery could make 600 loaves per batch

Well equipped hospital

During the war the mine was the largest producer of chromium in the world as well as producing nickel. The village was abandoned in 1964.

Saturday afternoon was the weigh-in for the local fishing competition. About 20 boats competed and the winning boat had caught over 400kg of tuna.

Gendarmes supervising the weigh-in 

On Sunday morning we left Koumac and sailed 21nm to Baie de Gomen. Nothing here except another mine and wharf. We were surprised to discover that the ships cannot get in to the wharf as the bay is too shallow and the nickel is transported to the ship outside the bay in barges. 

Seems a very inefficient process! Luckily they weren’t working on a Sunday as they load all night.

Baie de Gomen

Next stop was Baie de Chasseloup, a much more picturesque bay with a Nautical Centre. Schoolkids had been out sailing in their Optomists as we sailed in and we chatted with the instructors after going ashore for a walk. 

The dive instructor said just outside the reef was some of the best diving in New Caledonia. 

Circled twice looking for a way to get onboard!

Baie de Chasseloup is 128nm from Noumea and is the last anchorage in the northern lagoon. From here we have to go outside the barrier reef to continue our circumnavigation.