Phase2: Lagoon North of Noumea

Tuesday 28 June to Monday 4 July, 2016

We waited 4 days for good conditions to venture to Ilot Tenia on the outer reef and one of the highlights of the northern lagoon. Ilot Puen provided good protection from the W and SW winds and we enjoyed a couple of nice walks.

We did wait until the shooters in their hi-vis shirts had left as we didn’t want to be mistaken for a deer.

Most of these islands have old fishing shacks, in various stages of falling down. Apparently the government has cracked down on squatters but has not cleaned up the mess they left behind.

On Friday we headed across to Ilot Tenia. It has a private camp ground at one end (no one there) and long sandy beaches.

We spent 2 days here, returning to Ile Puen, 3nm away at night as the anchorage has a joggle reminiscent of high tide at Lady Musgrave Island. The sand spit we were anchored behind offered less protection than we expected.

We snorkelled both days and there were lots of large fish but the coral was a bit disappointing and the visibility was not as good as we had at Ilot M’be Kouen. I think this was a consequence of the stronger currents here and the winds which were about 15 knots each day.

We saw lots of sea snake tracks up the beach on our walks but we only saw one snake. After leaving here on Saturday we began the trek south beating 11nm to Baie des Moustiques into a 15 knot SE breeze. Next day we had our longest days sailing in a while, 34nm to windward to Baie Maa, 8nm north of Noumea. 3 other boats in the anchorage, the most we had encountered in 2 weeks. Warren caught a Queenfish on the way but we released it as they don’t freeze very well and we still have some mackeral left.

Port Moselle Marina, Noumea

On Monday we returned to Noumea for fresh supplies. Highlights of our visit this time were a visit to the World War II museum and dinner at a great pizzeria near the marina. The museum was the best 200 franks ($3) we have spent this trip.

There was an English commentary provided via handset and the displays and videos highlighted the impact of the large contingent of servicemen stationed in New Caledonia during the war. Highly recommended if you are visiting here.