Yeppoon to Raby Bay

Monday, 30 October to Thursday, 16 November 2023

After 4 nights in Keppel Bay Marina, we sailed across the bay to Pumpkin Island. We hadn't been to this anchorage before and were keen to do a walk on North Keppel Island. Pumpkin Island is privately owned (it was XXXX island for a time) so no access and the access to North Keppel is ideally half tide and above.

Quiet anchorage

On Tuesday, we walked 7.4km across the island to Considine Bay and then up to the lookout on well maintained National Parks tracks. The island was very dry and the palm forest was not as good as our last visit. 

Pumpkin Island (centre) with GKI in the background

On Wednesday it was an early start (0515!) to get to Pancake Creek 73nm away. We motored and motor-sailed until we passed Cape Capricorn at 1000 when we were able to raise the spinnaker in a 10 knot northerly. The wind continued to build until we had a steady 20 knots. We had a great run, averaging over 10 knots for the last 3 hours to have us anchored by 1615.

3 nights in Pancake Creek with Warren keen to see if the whiting had grown since our stop on the way north (sadly not). We also did the trip across to Jenny Lind Creek in our kayaks again where we did catch a few whiting for dinner.

We timed the tide a bit better this time

Jenny Lind Creek

On Saturday it was another early start to get across Hervey Bay before the next southerly change. It was a nice 10-15 knots NE breeze that was perfect for our genoa. We anchored at Hawks Nest on Fraser Island at 2115 after covering 103nm. 2 nights here before we headed down to Kingfisher Bay Resort on Tuesday and to watch the Melbourne Cup. We had lunch with the crew of the Seawind 1160 Trim. 

After the race we headed down to Garry's Anchorage and then onto Pelican Bay for 2 nights. Elevation came to join us and we enjoyed sundowners and walks with Lois and Kel. It was the first time I had seen their new boat - very impressive.

Elevation - an impressive Buizen 48

We crossed Wide Bay Bar on Friday morning and enjoyed a good sail to Mooloolaba with genoa and then spinnaker in the steady NE breeze. There was some concern in the morning when a Mayday call was put out after a plane ditched into the sea and 2 people were in the water. A nearby fishing boat went to their aid until a rescue helicopter arrived to transport them to the hospital. No serious injuries luckily.

We had booked a berth at the Wharf Marina for a week and this proved to be a great base. We were surprised there was little noise from the surrounding shops and restaurants and it is nice and close to the surf beach and supermarket. 

We caught up with cycling friends Helen and Scott with a loop around the Kawana lakes bike paths. 

We celebrated Warren's birthday at the French restaurant Brasserie Cent Six with Lynne, Dave and Tracey on our last night in Mooloolaba. Highly recommended and a great way to finish our holiday. 

On Thursday, we left the marina a day early to catch the last of the northerly before the next southerly change rolled through. We tied up to our pontoon just before 1600 after 98 days away and having travelled 1398nm. 

Pensive on the last day of our cruise north

Scawfell Island to Yeppoon

Sunday, 22 October to Sunday, 29 October 2023

Well the BOM had the wind direction right today but the strength was lacking unfortunately. We sailed for a couple of hours hoping the wind might build but it faded and eventually we started the engine and dropped the sails. We had plenty of company with 10 boats also making their way to Middle Percy Island. It was 63 nm to the calm anchorage in Whites Bay where we dropped anchor as the sun set.

Sunrise at White's Bay

We had another early start to get to Port Clinton. Slightly more breeze today so we managed to sail half the day. Lots of boats anchored inside Perforated Point so we went to the bay to the west. We decided to spend Tuesday here doing a few jobs and getting off the boat for a long walk. You can't leave the beach as the army uses this area for training exercises at certain times and they warn about unexploded ordinances!

Very soft sand made for slow going on the beach

On Wednesday, we finally had enough wind (just) to sail most of the way to Great Keppel Island. We shared the anchorage at Long Beach with about 20 other boats, some heading further south on Thursday while we headed across to Keppel Bay Marina to hide from the next big SE change due on Friday. 

Leaving Port Clinton shows how massive it is

We had 4 nights in the marina, shopping and enjoying the company of the other cruisers here. To counter this, we had 2 long rides on our bikes to the northern beaches and the Pineapple Rail Trail. 2 bonus rides for Warren to the bakery for fresh bread! 

Pineapple Rail Trail

Black cockatoos on the bike path

A Slow Start to the Trip South

Airlie Beach to Scawfell Island

Friday, 13 October to Saturday, 21 October 2023

We started our trip south with a short sail to South Molle Island. We picked up a mooring in Sandy Bay which was a good anchorage in the SE winds. On Saturday we hiked 8.7km to the top of Mt Jeffreys for a fabulous 360 degree view of the Whitsundays. 

View south from the summit at 195m

During our hike, we watched the Australian warship, HMAS Warramunga do laps of the Molle group and Daydream Island. Interesting except when they were still steaming past at 20 knots at 10pm giving off a sizable wash!

Track of HMAS Warramunga

HMAS Warramunga

On Sunday, we sailed to Plantation Bay on Lindeman Island. On Monday, another walk this time to the top of Mt Oldfield - 7.7km. We met the caretaker on the return trip and he told us the resort had been sold again to a Singaporean company who have big plans and hope to start work by the end of the year. Of course, we have heard this before but hopefully this time will see this resort back in business.

Phase2 in Plantation Bay

On Tuesday we sailed to Goldsmith Island to sit out the big SE blow expected. On the way we were pleased to catch our first spotted mackerel of the trip. 

Roylen Bay, Goldsmith Island

We had 3 nights at Goldsmith before the wind eased enough to tack down to Brampton Island. No cruiser likes sailing to windward but we were ready for a change of scenery and with slight seas it was a very pleasant sail. 

Inquisitive Moray Eel checking us out at Brampton Island

On Saturday, we sailed east to Scawfell Island to improve our sailing angle for the expected NE winds on Sunday. So far the forecast northerlies have not appeared and our progress south has been very slow. Let's hope they have it right this time.

Lots of boats waiting at Scawfell for a northerly

Whitsunday Cruising

 Saturday, 23 September to Thursday, 12 October 2023

We were hoping that with the arrival of our youngest son and his family the winds might start to ease but unfortunately this was not the case. We decided to spend another night in the marina and hoped that the easing of the winds expected on Monday would occur. 

Things were slightly better but it was still a double reef in the main for our trip to Happy Bay on Long Island. The anchorage was quite crowded and with the strong winds we decided after lunch to head across the passage to Cid Harbour. A good decision and we spent 2 nights here. Granddad taught our granddaughter how to fish and she then promptly caught a big bream. 

No bites fishing off the back of the boat

Success at Sawmill Beach

With some heavy rain on Tuesday morning, we did puzzles and played Uno, a lot of Uno! On Wednesday we ventured up the Passage to Stonehaven where we picked up a mooring. The gusts were ferocious and our son and daughter-in-law did well to manage a paddle. 

Always gusty at Stonehaven

Calmer on the beach

Our time with the family was coming to an end so we made our way back to Airlie Beach.

Stickers were a good idea until we had to remove them!!

We said goodbye to our family and then stayed another few days in Airlie to watch the Lions battle for the AFL Premiership. Sadly they went down to Collingwood by 4 points in a great game. 

4 of our family at the game including our eldest son Ben

With some nice weather forecast, on Tuesday 3 October we sailed back across the passage to Macona Inlet.  We then motored in light winds across to Cateran Bay on Border Island where we hiked up to the lookout and then had a swim.

Cateran Bay

Lovely calm weather so we then headed down to Whitehaven Beach with a stop at Hill Inlet on the way to catch some bream for dinner. Next day we did another lookout hike, swim to cool off and a beautiful calm night again once all the day trippers had left. 

Ah....the tranquility

On Friday it was back to Cid Harbour as the strong winds had returned. We had 4 nights here before the winds eased and we made our way to Blue Pearl Bay for my first snorkel of the trip. On the way we caught a Big Eye Tuna which we enjoyed for dinner that night. 

First keeper of this trip trolling

Moray Eel top left - I didn't want to get closer

On Wednesday, it was then back to Airlie for the last time this trip - to refuel, re-provision and get ready for the voyage home. 

On to the Whitsundays

Rosslyn Bay to the Whitsundays

Sunday, 17 September to Friday, 22 September 2023

After 9 days, we finally castoff our berth at Keppel Bay Marina at 0615 on Sunday in a strong SSE wind. It had eased a bit from the last few days and we were keen to move on. 

Dawn at Keppel Bay Marina

We set the spinnaker and had a great run all the way to the entrance of Island Head Creek. With winds a steady 15 to 20 knots, we had a fast trip with anchor down by 1345 after 52 nm. Our average speed over ground under spinnaker was a fast, for us, 9.1 knots and we saw 4 whales. 

Seas a bit larger than we like

On Monday we headed off again just after 0600 under main and jib as the wind was above 20 knots. By 0840, the wind was down to 15 to 20 so we hoisted the spinnaker and headed for Curlew Island. We carried it most of the way and anchored at Curlew at 1540 after 65 nm and seeing 5 whales including one right as we entered the bay. 

Curlew is one of our favourite islands but with family joining us on Saturday, we had to keep moving. We departed at 0610 on Tuesday morning for Brampton Island. Just after exiting the bay we saw a whale heading in our direction. A quick tack was required as it wasn't about to alter course for us. Spinnaker run again all day in a lighter 10-15 knot SE wind. As we approached Brampton we reunited with Dawn's Light from the RQ Cruise North group.

The beautiful Whitsunday islands

On Wednesday, we decided to head for Whitehaven Beach to enjoy the light winds of the next few days. Unfortunately these plans quickly changed when Warren discovered a small fuel leak from the port engine fuel filter. A call to our friend Brett in Airlie Beach resulted in him sourcing a replacement and offering to install it. So we altered course and after a night at the underrated Beach 25, we headed to Airlie and tied up at the Coral Sea Marina. Great service from Honest Brett's Diesel Repairs had it all fixed that day!

Friday was washing, cleaning and re-provisioning ready for our youngest son and his family arriving on Saturday.

Into the Tropics

Yellowpatch, Great Keppel Island and Rosslyn Bay

Saturday, 2 September to Saturday, 16 September 2023

We had to wait for the tide to come in to leave Pacific Creek, and then sail the 25nm across the top of Curtis Island to get to Yellowpatch before the tide had dropped too much. Luckily, Warren had some waypoints from a local in Gladstone and we had plenty of water under the keels going in (3.2m on a 2.8m tide). 

Don't enter at low tide!

We anchored before the big orange/yellow sandhill and wondered why it has been 12 years since last we visited. It is a very picturesque spot. 

Beautiful weather

Very protected in SE winds

Unfortunately, our stay was restricted to 2 nights as on Monday the government was closing the northern part of the island for feral animal control. Not wanting to encounter any stray bullets, we headed north for Great Keppel Island just before the 1200 closure.

Beautiful GKI beaches

At Great Keppel Island we caught up with the RQ Cruise North group again. We had perfect weather for our 4 nights anchored at Fisherman's Beach. Walks, kayaking and sundowners ashore filled our days and we were sorry to move on Friday to Rosslyn Bay. 

A large number of cruisers in the bays around GKI

My beach shelter (Mark 2) - still needs some refinements

Leeke's and Svensen's Bays

Our original plan was to stay in the Keppel Bay Marina for only a few days however a very strong south easterly and a chest infection for Warren changed that to 9 days. We enjoyed a couple of dinners with the RQ cruisers and lots of bike rides. 

Dinner at Beaches with RQ Cruisers

One of the best bikeways in Yeppoon

Warren made a new friend

Emu Park Singing Ship has had the volume turned down

Impressive ANZAC memorial at Emu Park

Looking towards the marina from Bluff Point

It was also great to catch up with my cousin Alan who I don't think I've seen since we were kids. 

Now.....

And then... I don't think we've changed much

Gladstone and The Narrows

Pancake Creek to Pacific Creek

Friday, 25 August to Friday, 1 September, 2023

We had a leisurely 0840 start to ensure we entered Gladstone with an incoming tide. A steady SE breeze to start, which went around to the E as we neared Gladstone made for an easy sail. The Gladstone Marina is off Auckland Inlet and after hearing lots of recommendations we decided to spend a week here. 

Gladstone Marina

The marina has a courtesy bus that we used for our reprovisioning and to visit the local art gallery and museum.

Old town hall repurposed as the art gallery

We were pleased to not encounter any magpies on our many bike rides, unlike our last visit which was my main memory of Gladstone! 

Spinnaker Park

Tondoon Botanic Gardens

Large cycad in the botanic gardens

Several RQ boats were already here, and we enjoyed a great dinner with the crew at the Yacht Club. 

Bridge opening on our walk home from dinner

We enjoyed our time in Gladstone however it is an industrial city and and coal dust in a northerly was not at all to Warrens liking!

Coal terminal north of the marina

So on Friday, 1 September we departed the marina for a trip up the inside of Curtis Island - aptly named The Narrows. The first 8 nm is in deep channels past the coal and gas loading wharves. Once clear of these, we motored with the tide towards the shallowest section of the passage. This is the crossover point for the tide and we quickly found ourselves pushing 3+ knots of tide.

2 engines needed to battle the tide

The shallowest section, the cattle crossing, is 2 m high at low tide and must be negotiated after careful calculations to make sure you have enough water. With a 4m tide we had no trouble, but we did breathe a sigh of relief as we got back into deeper water.

Fence shows where they used to drive the cattle across

We spent the night at Pacific Creek, so we could time the tide to Yellowpatch the following day. Lots of midgies and we swung from bank to bank in the wind. Not recommended!

Pacific Creek