Louisiades photos

I'm sitting at Horseshoe Bay with a cold so have taken the opportunity to update some blog entries below and add photos. Click on the links below to view.

Bagaman Island and Beach Party Time

Island hopping

The trip home begins

Friday, 19 September to Sunday, 28 September 2012
Cairns to Magnetic Island

We spent a week at the Marlin Marina, waiting for an easing of the strong south easterlies and doing a few jobs. We restocked fresh fruit and veggies but have enough cans etc. for months I suspect. Warren cleaned Phase2 and traded tips with Brett from Wind of Change who keeps this yacht immaculate also.

Seawind 1250 and 1160

The marina is well located with daily walks along the Esplanade a highlight.

On Friday 26 September we headed off in a light south westerly that was predicted to go to the east during the day. We sailed to Fitzroy Island then with an easing breeze we motored to Russell Island where we picked up a mooring. The other 3 rally yachts who had left a bit before us pushed on to Zoe Bay, arriving at 2300.

Cruise ship Volendum entering Cairns as we leave

Saturday we left early under motor but by 1100 had the spinnaker up as we passed the North Barnard Island group. The spinnaker is going well after being repaired in Bwagoia Harbour by Kate and Graham from Thalassa who had a sewing machine on board. We blew it apart on a tight reach from Kamataal to Misima.

Head and luff resewn

We carried it passed Dunk Island in perfect conditions that made us change our mind from an anchorage at nearby Garden Island to continuing on to Orpheus Island.  A fast reach under genoa most of the way so we arrived at 1900 having covered 83nm in the day.

Another early start on Sunday to get to Horseshoe Bay before the south easterlies pick up in the afternoon. We plan to spend a few days here waiting for a more favourable breeze and as we both have colds. It could be worse, as one rally member was admitted to Townsville hospital with malaria on his return to Australia. We still have another couple of weeks of anti-malarials to go.

Amazing Louisiades Adventure

Tuesday, 16 October to Friday, 19 October, 2012 
Louisiades to Mission Bay, Cairns

We dropped the anchor at 0145 on Friday morning after covering the 503 nm from the Louisiades to here in 64 hours - an average of 7.8 knots. The rally was an amazing experience that we both thoroughly enjoyed. I will update the earlier posts with photos and more detail over the coming days (weeks??).

The trip home was a more typical Coral Sea crossing than our trip over. We left Duchateau with 6 other rally yachts (5 going to Cairns with us and 1 to Townsville).

Nestasea leaving Duchateau

The first 2 days we had winds of up to 35 knots and large, confused seas. We put in our second reef at 1500 on Tuesday, the third reef an hour later and half furled our self tacker jib another hour later as the squalls continued to roll past. We sailed like this all night and I did not enjoy the conditions at all.

Warren was left to do most of the sailing with a couple of hours sleep when I could stand a watch around midnight. Conditions improved during Wednesday and Thursday was a fantastic sail in perfect conditions. I was back on deck and enjoying some food again and we had full main and self tacker all day. We averaged 8.8 knots during the day and covered 193 nm in 24 hours. This was a great way to finish the rally.

Friday morning we moved to Marlin Marina in Cairns where we cleared customs and quarantine after getting the all clear from Wallace.

Warren loved Wallace's booties

Nearly Home

Left PNG on Tuesday. Now we're about 130nm from Cairns. Should arrive tonight and clear customs tomorrow. Trip rougher than going over but Phase2 handling it well.

PNG: The home stretch

Thursday, 11 October to Monday, 15 October 2012
Nimowa and Wanim Islands

We motored most of the 21 nm from Sabera Island to Nimowa Island where we anchored in 20m of water. Once we would have thought this very deep however after 4 weeks in these waters we consider it average. We went ashore Thursday afternoon for a welcome from the local elementary school.

The spelling looked right from where the teacher stood

On Friday we all piled into banana boats for a trip up the Fieori River, Sudest Island to swim in the waterfall.

This is a popular swimming place for the local kids and safer than the river where some boats sighted a large croc.

After the river trip, some of us visited the local elementary school to pass on some donations. They had prepared some dances for us and had prepared a very generous afternoon tea.

On Saturday we visited the local clinic where we gave our major donation for the trip to support their work and in particular the Clinic Ambulance that had been donated by a previous rally participant. Sister Sarah proudly stated they are now rated the best of the 40 regional clinics in PNG - partly due to rally donations. While at the clinic, John from Allikat lead a team that rigged up a solar light system for the waiting house for expectant mothers.

Salvaged ex RPAYC start boat now does service as the Clinic Ambulance

After visiting the clinic we played soccer with the local school kids. Warren was manager of the team and had to be careful with team substitutions to ensure that the kids won. All the kids got a gift at the end. We gave some bags that Ben had given us to any kids that had been bowled over by an overly enthusiastic dimdim.

After the game we had lunch prepared by the local ladies. It rained off and on most of the day but this did not dampen any spirits.

On Sunday we motorsailed 10nm to Wanim Island for our last night together and the planned pirate party. Unfortunately the rain had set in and our BBQ on the beach was changed to drinks on Nalukai (50 foot cat).

The Nalukai girls had prepared a great documentary of the trip which everyone loved, Guy gave out certificates to all and I read a poem we had written using the yacht names (see below). It was a great way to finish the rally.

Hope to start trip home on Tuesday.

Phase2 gets creative

Louisiades Rally 2012

The fleet gathered at Yorkey's
Awaiting the Wind of Change
We were off to the Louisiades
Were we brave or deranged.

We left Grafton Passage
For the Deeper Blue Coral Sea
Some of us weren't well
And Desired to sit under a tree.

Cries of Honey Bee a darling
And fetch me a bucket
Oh dear, over the side
We had better chuck it.

Phase2 of the passage
We weren't quite as pale
Gaultine along
Under full sail.

We were all very glad
To reach the Sanctuary of Duchateau
BBQ lobster thanks to men
In sailaus with no need to row.

On to Panasia
Mac showed us the skull cave
Sweet Justice long past
And we got wet from the waves.

Panapompom displayed
The Tradition of sailaus
Prizes for first, second and third
But not Thalassa (sorry nothing rhymes!!)

Then on to Bagaman
The carvings to see
Works of art to adorn
Our Nestaseas.

From the party at Blue Lagoon
On to Hoba Bay
To Investigator the coral
We sought Haven 3 days.

But soon it was Misima
Girls in traditional attire
Had the boys exclaiming
Wow, Nalukai!!

Then to Nimowa
Clinic and at soccer we yield
And see an Allikat
Close to the field.

Now a pirate party at Wanim
As we watch the light fade
Our last time together
In the Seaglass waters of the Louisiades.

Thanks to all our fellow rally participants. You were a great group to share this adventure with and we hope our paths cross again in the future.

The fish was THIS big!

Monday, 8 October to Thursday, 11 October 2012
Sabera Island

We motored to Sabera Island via Kimuta Island and anchored in the crystal clear waters. This is another area that is stunning.

We had perfect weather for our days here and the area was great for kayaking and swimming, although 2 people were stung by jellyfish.

Local kids kept us company

We had a walk over the island to visit the local community school, St Anthony's. 

I was amazed that the year 3 and 4 students were learning about quadrilaterals when they struggled to answer our questions in English.

The boarders, some as young as 8, sleep on grass mats on concrete and have to cook their own meals. Education is highly valued here and until this year parents paid K200 per student to attend school.

Girls dormitory

Big news is Warren caught a 80cm 7kg coral trout!

About to head to Nimowa today. Weather is beautiful, and not too hot. Starting to think about the trip home.

Sabera was certainly one of the trip highlights for us.

Misima

Saturday, 6 October to Monday, 8 October 2012
Bwagoia Harbour, Misima

The 24nm trip from Kamataal to Misima was a great spinnaker run until we blew the head out of our spinnaker. 17 knots of wind, tight reach and lumpy seas added up to our lovely red spinnaker floating into the ocean after ripping across the head and down the luff.

Misima is the largest island in the Louisiades and Bwagoia Harbour is the “big smoke” around here.We had pre-purchased fuel to be picked up here.  The anchorage was tight for 15 yachts so we rafted up with fore and aft anchors set on all boats to stop us moving too far.

Saturday afternoon we were entertained at the Misima Guesthouse by dancers, singers and performers from villages on the island. Some had travelled long distances to participate in the event.

The large crowd enjoyed the many acts and especially liked the Misima competition for young girls in traditional costume. I was one of the 2 dimdim ladies asked to judge the event. Not an easy task and subject to much debate that night!

The local ladies were also keen to have a Pem Pewa with us (exchange of gifts). They had gone to a lot of trouble preparing their baskets which looked beautiful. 

On Saturday night, dinner at the Guesthouse was followed by an auction where each yacht donated something useful and something weird. Everyone entered into the spirit and the kina raised were donated to the Nimowa Clinic.

Bwagoia could not be called picturesque so many yachts stayed just one night. We stayed an extra night as Kate and Graham from Thalassa had offered to help fix our spinnaker as they had a sewing machine on board.

Island Hopping

Monday, 1 October to Wednesday, 3 October 2012
Hoba Bay, Panaumala Island

Another beautiful anchorage just 3nm from the Blue Lagoon. Nalukai arrived with a monster Spanish Mackeral on the back steps that they presented to the local village that we visited in the afternoon. 

The whole village assembled to shake our hands as we entered under their hand painted sign. Village elder Bernard George welcomed us all and Guy presented the village with gifts and the school kids with bags of books and pencils.  

The elementary school performed some beautiful songs and dances in traditional costume. They enjoyed when the dim dim kids joined into the fun dance and laughed when some of the adults tried to do the actions. 

They are very proud of their culture and later demonstrated to us all how to make fire, bagai (shell necklaces), grass skirts and baskets. 

No batteries required

 

The local ladies were keen to do a “Pem Pewa” with us - an exchange of gifts. We filled bags with clothes, soap, food, bowls or other goods we thought they could use while they had prepared baskets full of bananas, pawpaw, pumpkin, eggplant and hand made goods. We formed 2 lines and then exchanged gifts with the person opposite. Afterwards there was much happy singing and dancing to celebrate the exchange.

This was a great anchorage in the winds which kept up around 20 knots for several days. Good snorkelling, fishing and a nice beach to walk along.

Wednesday, 3 October to Friday, 5 October 2012
Robinson Harbour

With a few days before our next rally event we split with most of the fleet and head further east to Robinson Harbour, which proved to be well protected from the strong south easterly winds.

Allikat at Robinson Harbour

We trade for mud crabs here and make friends with some local kids while out for a walk.

Their English is limited to dim dim, lollipop and balloon but they lead us to their hut where Dennis is building a new hut.

This family is from nearby Gigila Island but their garden is here and they spend several days a week here tending it.

Clearing for a new garden which last 3-5 years

We head back to the boat to get some gifts for them.

Next morning Dennis comes by as he has lost his fish hook - we give him our handline, spare line, hooks and sinkers and he is keen for us to return next year when his hut is finished to visit him again.

Friday, 5 October to Saturday, 6 October 2012
Kamataal

19nm under spinnaker to Kamatal.  This is one of the most beautiful spots we have visited so far.

We go for a snorkel in the crystal clear waters and visit the yacht club here, which opened in 2009.

Not the Folie a Deux we know

Phase2 is now on display after paying to have a plaque carved and hung in the hut. Another 1m mackeral caught today. Tomorrow we head to Misima to get fuel.

Bagaman Island and Beach Party Time!

Friday, 28 September to Sunday, 1 October 2012

On Friday we sailed 21nm from Motorina to Bagaman and caught a nice mackeral on the way.

The heavy rain overnight cleared by the morning rally sched so the Bagaman Muster was on. We motored around together to the local village where another sing sing and mumu had been organised. We were met at the gate and had leis placed around our necks by the locals.

The morning's entertainment was kept moving by MC Eustace and we all sat in the cool of the shelter built for us.

Shelter was a fine example of local craftmanship

The local elementary school teacher and students performed some dances in traditional costume and showed us their classroom.

After the entertainment we had a mumu lunch and bought carvings and baskets from the locals who proudly displayed their creations. Bagaman has the best carvings in the area and we came away with some fine examples.

On Sunday, we left Bagaman for a short motor to Blue Lagoon for the yachties beach party - no locals live on this island so we could let our hair down. Our team won the tug of war contest. We had BBQ mackeral for lunch. Having lots of fun!